On Day 5, India’s colors and culture came alive. We decided to take a day off from driving and stay in Udaipur because it is simply a magical place. The city is built around a man-made lake in the middle of the desert.

Surrounding the lake are various palaces (now hotels) and the streets were a labyrinth of twisty little alleys filled with shops, street vendors and a vast array of unusual sights.

We had already driven through the markets the night before in our tuk tuk (nice work, Enrico), so we decided to visit the City Palace.

In total, there are 11 palaces within the entire complex and there are two things that were particularly noteworthy:

First, the Raj’s of Udaipur must have been the size of Lilliputians. Their grand, royal “Assembly Hall” was no bigger than a shipping container. Perhaps the Raj’s didn’t feel it was necessary to assemble with many people because, well, I assume as “Raj” you simply wave your pinky and your wish is everyone’s command (and therefore, there is very little need to ‘assemble’). However, the doorways were tiny. I banged my head on almost every single doorway of each and every one of the palaces’ palaces. I now have a bump on my forehead that I call Raj.

Second, I am happy to confirm that I have formally discovered the origins of disco… the 17^th century Raj’s of Udaipur.

These guys had it going on.

They had mirrors on every available surface (if not mirrors, then wickedly shiny and colorful patterns), satin lounge pillows to recline on after a break from the dance floor, fabrics that most definitely inspired valor and multi-colored floors.

For sure, these little rockin’ Raj’s had ‘roadie crews’ who operated a mirrored party contraption (that would put our modern day disco balls to shame) while their band played and reams of people in multi-colored saris, bright turbans, pointy shoes and long-flowing robes danced until the early hours.

For those of who you can remember (or those of you want to Google) the album cover to Saturday Night Fever, that is more or less what their private rooms looked like.

In the evening, I watched the sun set over Udaipur from a perch overlooking the lake. At the moment when the sun had completely set and the horizon was still painted in burnt oranges and browns, the sky filled with huge bats (about 1 ½ wide). To see that many bats (they filled the sky) which were that big… It was like something you see in a movie, but don’t believe ever really happens. It was completely surreal.

Below me, on the lake, was the Lake Palace (which in one of the James Bond movies was populated exclusively by acrobatic assassins). When the movie came out, I was just young enough to believe that kind of thing existed in the world.

Apparently, the place is now a hotel. However, no one who is not a guest at the “hotel” is allowed onto the island. Not for dinner. Not for a drink. Not to look around and see what’s actually going on over there.

The entire time we were there, no one ever left the island. Nor did anyone ever go to the island. Not a single boat. No one ever appeared in sight. At night, the lights were kept low and you got the suspicion that maybe…